On The Top Of Poon Hill (Day 3)

poon hill

Poon Hilai ma, phool jasto sundari…

A morning in Poon Hill. We started walking up at around 6 AM. We were already late but I was determined to reach at the top. Stuart pulled off from the hiking within first five minutes. Then it was turn of porter. I thought Martha would make it to the top considering the way she walked the day before. No, she also wanted to return back. I remained alone and I continued walking humming this song: Poon Hilai ma, phool jasti soltini rakhe manai ma! [I met a girl beautiful like a flower and put her in my heart]. May be I was hoping to find a soltini in Poon Hill. I had already missed the sun rise but the desire to be at the top constantly kept me pushing up. I reached there, in about half an hour, and saw the fabulous Dhawalagiri Annapurna range. That was really awesome. I kept watching Himals, so clean and shining because of the sunlight, for several minutes from the view tower. The view of other hills was so fascinating.

biritsh folks on poon hill

There were about four dozen English folks (pic, above), members of scout, who were trekking Annapurna region from Jomsong. A boy told me that they were returning to Pokhara today. I took a few photographs, many of them my own self-portraits with Himalayan range on background. I spent about 20 minutes on the tower overhearing English folks and observing them getting excited about the view.

At one point, I felt like screaming “so beautiful.” At the same time, I felt lonely. I wanted to share my feelings but there was no one to share my excitement. At least, not a Soltini! But I consoled myself that even if I missed the sunrise, I hardly see sunrise in my daily life anyway because at that time I would still be in bed, I got to see the Himals and the view.

wagle in poon hill

Wagle on Poon Hill Tower. Pic by an unidentified British boy

It was time to descend. I came down ready to climb up again toward Tadapani. Girls were having breakfast. But they had news for me. “We are thinking of staying here for a day,” said one of them. I was mentally prepared to walk, was ready to go Tadapani and I wasn’t thinking about staying there for a day. But I also couldn’t tell them that they shouldn’t stay and move. That would be, I thought, so un-American. Who was I to stop them from fulfilling their desire to stay a day in Ghorepani. That is why I told them my intention. I would be going and wait for them in Ghandruk. I don’t know why but girls also decided to start walking.

Climbing again up to Deurali Danda was challenging especially after Poon Hill feat. But I did it easily though it was noticeable that Stuart was finding it very hard. Later I was told my Martha that Stuart vomited. Now I started worrying but I didn’t show my concern because I thought that would put extra pressure on her. My feeling was that she would make it to Tadapani without difficulties and we don’t have to walk back all the way to Ghorepani. I kept walking on a slow pace. Stuart was too slow for my normal pace and reducing that pace unnaturally would have created negative impact in my walking. As I was carrying a backpack, I wasn’t in a position to stop every now and then because that would have left me tired at the end of the day. Girls were walking well and that was fine with me. They ought to experience the challenges of trekking and I hoped they did so well.

wagle in poon hill

I think Stuart didn’t like me leaving her behind but I had my own compulsion as I mentioned above. I had to walk on my natural pace. I tried to explain this to Martha and I think she understood. If there is no compatibility of pace between trekking partners, I think the best idea would be to walk on their own pace and the person with fast pace waist for the friend after covering a reasonable distance. That’s what I did.

Martha was a great walker which was beyond my expectation. But she tried to keep herself with Stuart as, I think, she didn’t want to make her feel bad. Oh yea, the only thing that made Martha upset was the unavailability of menthol cigarettes in the trek route. Hum, there was no ganja available as well. First thing she did in Tadapani was to go hunt for menthol cigarettes but unfortunately she wasn’t successful in the mission.

About these ads

On Ghorepani. Wireless Internet A Dream?

Finally, I am in Ghorepani (or Ghodepani), the place that stayed in my mind after I read the description in an article published in San Francisco Chronicle. It is evening and the cloud has ruined my view of Himals (snowy mountains) including the great Annapurna and Dhaulagiri range. We three- Martha, Stuart and myself- played cards (Ace or Call Break or Golkhadi as we call the game) and I made some good points though once I went golkhadi or negative. No problem, the whole cool world outside the dining hall of the Sunny Hotel was waiting for me.

ghorepani woman group leader

I went outside and headed toward the Magar museum set up by local Aama Samuha (Women Group). A 50-year-old lady from Samuha, Seumaya Pun Magar (in pic), opened up the center for me. The Samuha, the lady told, had done some remarkable job like maintaining the trekking trail on a regular basis and organizing cleaning campaign in the village on the first day of every month. While getting out of the museum, that had memorabilia and other materials that represent Magar culture in the village, a computer inside an adjoining room caught my attention. That was a laptop attached to a communication antenna on the window. I was surprised to see the equipments there. The lady told me that they were donated and installed there by Mahabir Pun of Nangi Village. Mahabir of Nangi School fame is in a mission to establish wireless networks in villages.

on way to tadapani from ghorepani

Wagle on way to Tadapani from Ghorepani. This place about 45 minutes up from Ghorepani, was one of the best in the trail. The cool breeze was unforgettable. I was marching ahead free and careless enjoying the mixture of sounds from birds, worms and wind. Photos like the one posted above were my favorite for the trip: Face Value!

on way to tadapani from ghorepani

As I am writing these lines, I am missing my laptop-connected-to-internet very much. I wish I had that with me here. That would be really cool to get connected to the world from these highlands of Myagdi. Just imagine using internet and checking emails from atop Poon Hill! Especially in the home district of Mahabir Pun who is, though in a small way, revolutionizing the way Nepali people are connected. But that will be possible one day when his mission becomes a complete success.

Ready to Rock: In the Hills of Annapurna

Yes, I am leaving Pokhara tomorrow morning for a week long Annapurna Trek. Two American girls, students of photography, will be traveling with me. So I will not be alone. I have never gone to that part of the country before but I am excited. I am hoping to go to Ghorepani, Ghandruk and Landruk. I have been hearing about this trek route since I was in school. I still remember reading that Internal Tourism issue of Sadhana magazine where both the villages Ghandruk and Landruk were extensively covered for being the most beautiful villages in the country. Then Ghorepani. I always remember an article in San Francisco Chronicle that I read two years ago when I think about Ghorepani: Everything adds up in math of chance meetings. The American author of the article talks about a chance meeting with his school teacher in Ghorepani. I don’t know whom I will be meeting!

I am excited about the trekking. I just want to enjoy the trip. So wish me a good journey!