Timbu to Tarke Gyang [Helambu Trek Day 3 of 6]

Ashika Lama, with her two little sisters, had lied about her name and didn’t want to be photographed at the later stage of our conversation though she slightly flirted with us in the beginning. She was waiving hands at us as we started climbing upward.

21 October [Tarke Gyang]: We started late, walked really slow and it took us an era to arrive at Tarke Gyang: more than eight hours for a distance that generally takes about four hours to normal trekkers. That was in part, because, we were not sure about going to Tarke Gyang. Sometime I wanted to return while at others Suraj wanted to get back to Timbu. He had a solid reason. He was flirting with a woman (who I can’t identify here for privacy reasons) in Timbu and my impression was that she liked him!

Sixteen-year-old Ashika Lama and her relative kids cleaning the writing on a stupa.

Ashika cleans the writings on the stupa near her house:

“What’s your name?” I asked her. “Ashika,” she said.

“Do you study?”


“Which grade?”


Later on, we found from a kid, Ashika’s relative that she had lied to us. Her real name was Yangen Lama and she had stopped going school since last year. She dropped out from sixth grade. My guess was that she wanted to be called as Ashika, so I am calling her Ashika.

In the first photo above, Ashika gives a rare glace at my camera after she avoided so for many times as I clicked her photos. “Ashika, look at me,” I would say and she would never do so though she replied all of my questions in humorous manner.

Wagle plays with the cell phone just above Timbu, at the danda where the GSM signal was available. We enjoyed a lot while giving bluff calls to some friends at office.

Suraj with cell phone. Behind him is the millet field.

Wagle inspects an Apple tree in a private orchard near Kakani.

Wagle on the trail at Kakani, on the background Apple trees seen.

Wagle grabs Aalu (potatoes) that saved him for the day.

Wagle and Suraj Kunwar eat Aalu (potatoes) that saved them for the day.

We had planned to have food at Kakani, two hours up from Timbu but the hotel there was closed. It was already about 12, we had started walking at 8, and we were hungry. There were only two packets of Coconut biscuits and the trail ahead was all covered in dense jungle. There was no place to eat, we concluded if we don’t somehow manage to eat somewhere at Kakani. Then we arrived at the home of this little lady named Tenzen Angmu Lama, requested her mother to boil potatoes for us and filled our belly for about Rs. 50. We were now ready to cross the jungle.

We arrived at Tarke Gyang at around 4 PM and stayed in the hotel of a guy who had resigned from Nepal Electricity Authority after he beat his seniors at the office. We also went to a nearby monastery (Tarke Gyang Gumba) to where we witnessed a Dashain ceremony.

From Yesterday’s Journal:

Wagle and Maya

Wagle walks with Maya in Keyul Village. This photo was supposed to be posted in previous day’s journal. Read the story that we wrote about Maya in Kantipur here.

7 thoughts on “Timbu to Tarke Gyang [Helambu Trek Day 3 of 6]

  1. Reader

    Fabulous! This word I uttered after reading your journal. I like the Ashikawala stuff! Oh then, this is maya! I had made different picture since I had read that news in internet. Good to see her here.


  2. Reader

    “…..Suraj wanted to get back to Timbu. He had a solid reason. He was flirting with a woman (who I can’t identify here for privacy reasons) in Timbu and my impression was that she liked him!”

    How did you feel she liked Suraj ni? Ani what about Suraj? Suraj is your friend, it does not sound strange if you make any impression about Suraj but that lady? Oh! I got it tar nalekhu hola…feri dohori chaler hairan 😉


  3. Wagle

    I had forgotten to mention a few lines from my conversation with Ashika. When she told me her name, I had asked:

    “Are, Lama ko pani Ashika naam hunchh ra?”
    “Hunchha ni, kina nahunu?”
    “Haina hola?”
    “Aan haina, ho”

    And Suraj added: Modern huna lai Ashika rakheko hola ni. Ashika just smiled.

    In your first comment, I am not sure who you are talking about having a different picture of: Maya or Ashika.

    Aalu were indeed wonderful. The nun khorshani was even more wonderful. The combination of Aalu and khursani, at that point in time when we were starving, was unforgettable.

    “How did you feel she liked Suraj ni?”
    >> Well, you can find out how old I am somewhere in this site.

    And on your question about why not the lady but Suraj the friend: Because, as I have mentioned earlier, I must respect the lady’s right to privacy and dignity. That’s all for this. About Suraj? Oh… he is THE lady killer. And I am sure he will love this compliment, won’t you Suraj? 😉


  4. Reader

    maile Mayako photoko kura gareko!

    Umera pako bhayo bhandaima sahi sahi anuman lauchhu bhanne chahi alik pachena malai ta! Umer Athhais ko kyar, kura nappaisa bhanthe hamra tir ta! Tapaika pani kura uhi nappais jasto lgayo!

    Hope Suraj will comment!

    Ani you look Torpe Trekker in some photos! Half paintma chahi pura pur Torpe! Torpe kasto sound garchha?


  5. DW

    Torpe is one of my favorite terms that I use to describe torpe people. So I don’t mind if others use that to describe me as well. And I don’t also rule out the possibility that I might have looked like a torpe while trekking. Everyone is trope in trekking route actually.



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