Tag Archives: delhi

उबरले संसारका थुप्रै शहरहरूमा ट्याक्सी व्यवसायको अनुहारदै बदल्देको छ । उबर र भारतमा उसको प्रतिस्पर्धी अोलाले टेम्पुहरूलाई समेत अाफ्नो एप्पमा ल्याउन खोजिरहेका छन् ।

उबर दिल्ली

त्यो वेलुकी म खान मार्केटको फकिर-चन्द एन्ड सन्सबाट वाकिेङ् द हिमालयज  च्यापेर निस्केको थिएँ । झोलामा द अोसन अफ चर्न  थियो र थिए द टु-इयर माउन्टेन, हाफ लायन  अनि कोर्मा खीर एन्ड किस्मत । अलि ठूलो पसलमा गएपछि अाफ्नो छनोटका किताव मात्रै किनेर पुग्छ र? त्यही दिन त्यो पसलमा टुपुल्किएको ग्यारिसन्ड माइन्ड्स्  लगायतका अरू केही मगाइएका पुस्तक पनि थिए मसँग । सानोतिनो व्यंग्य नै मान्नुपर्छ खातको सबैभन्दा माथि अघि साँझ नेहरू प्लेसमा किनेको पेपरह्वाईटको कालो खोल थियो । अर्थात झोला गह्रौं थियो । पसिना तर्तरी चुहिने त्यो गर्मीमा लगभग दुइसय मिटर पर्तिरको भूमिगत शहरी रेल स्टेशनसम्म पनि हिड्ने मेरो इच्छा थिएन । अाखिर मेट्रो रेलले पनि मलाई मेरो गन्तव्यसम्म पुर्याउदैनथ्यो क्यारे ।

[यो लेखको अघिल्लो भाग अर्थात गुनासो संस्करण यहाँ छ “उबरमान्डू” ]

बाबु र म ।

बाबु र म । फोटोभित्रको फुच्चे फोटोमा हामी अघिल्तिरको सडक । ग्यालेक्सी एस सेभेनको दोहोरो क्यामेरा अवतारमा खिचिएको फोटो ।

यो लेख बाकसपछि निरन्तर छ । तपाईँलाई इमेलमै पछिल्लो ब्लग, लेख र तस्बिर पठाउँदा म खुसी हुनेछु । बाकसमा आफ्नो इमेल ठेगाना हाल्नु होला । यो लेख इमेल इन्बक्समै पढिरहुन भएको छ भने केही गर्न पर्दैन । धन्यवाद🙂

Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

पाँच बर्षअघि म दिल्लीको अस्थायी बासिन्दा हुँदा त्यस्तो अवस्थामा मैले सडकमा निस्केर हात हल्लाउदै टेम्पु रोक्नुपर्थ्यो । नभए ट्याक्सी खोज्नु पर्थ्यो । अटोमा तातो हावा खादै सात किलोमिटर कुद्न मलाई मन भएन । ट्याक्सी खोज्ने जाँगर पनि लागेन । फेरि वेपत्ताको महंगो ट्याक्सी किन चढ्थ्यें? दिल्ली अोर्लेको पहिलो दिनै मुस्किलले चार किलोमिटर यात्रा गर्दा ट्याक्सीलाई अाठसय रूपैयाँ तिरेकै थिएँ । उसको मिटरमा मलाई विश्वास थिएन तर के झगडा गरिरहनु त्यो गर्मीमा ।

त्यसैले मैले खल्तीबाट मोवाइल फोन निकालें जसमा भोडाफोनको फोरजी सेवा उपलब्ध थियो । फोनमा मैले उबर एप्प खोलें । अनि ‘देखि’मा खान मार्केट र ‘सम्म’मा अाइटीसी मौर्य लेखें । छिनमै मैले जानकारी पाएँ, स्विफ्ट डिजायर चलाउने अरविन्द म भन्दा तीन मिनेट टाढा छन् । हेर्दाहेर्दै उनी एकै मिनेट टाढा भए । जरूरी त थिएन तर उनले मलाई फोन गरे । मैले अाफू उभिएकै विन्दु उल्लेख गरें । केही बेरमै उनको गाडी सडकको अर्कोपट्टी मेरै सामुन्ने उभियो ।

त्यसरी ११ अगस्टको राती नौ बज्नै लाग्दा म अरविन्दको डिजायरमा छिरेको थिएँ । Continue reading

Advertisements

Dry Fruit Sellers of Old Delhi

19th March Satish took me to parts of Old Delhi where I hadn’t gone during my two-year stay in the city. We had gone to the area looking for the shop where we had found best lassi in Delhi in 2010. I liked the effort they have put to decorate these dry fruit shops and the orderly manner in which items were on display. Shopkeepers were surprisingly peaceful and calm (at least looked so) despite the street atmosphere being so chaotic.

i was walking through the city streets… #oldDelhi

Look at his eyes that are looking at something else18th-19th March A trip to New Delhi is not complete without taking a walk through the animating streets of Old Delhi. The old part of Delhi feels like a super enlarged Ason. More chaos and bigger crowds. The contrast between New and Old is clearly visible and mind-boggling. On the new part of the city roads are wider and filled with cars. Some of them are BMWs, Porches and Ferraris.

I noticed the last one in Delhi in this trip. The autowallah stopped the auto I was in for a few seconds to let the car go ahead of him. He commented: “Delhi toh bahut dhani ho gaya hai. Ferrari vi aagaya ab.” [Delhi has become very rich. Now Ferrari has come here too]. I hadn’t spotted Ferrari when I lived in the city for two years (2008-11). Continue reading

Parthasarathy Rocks (and Flowers of JNU)

Dinesh Wagle at Parthasarathy Rocks in JNU. December 2008.

Dinesh Wagle at Parthasarathy Rocks in JNU. December 2008.

17th and 20th March 2013 When I was living in Delhi as a correspondent for Kantipur, PSR was my favorite place in the city. That, according to me, is also the most beautiful place in the whole of Delhi. I would spend hours at the Parthasarathy Rocks, located inside the Jawaharlal Nehru University campus chatting with friends and, when with Satish, strangers. The dhabas in the Uni during late evenings are great place to be. But nothing beats the experience of sitting over one of the main two rocks at PSR in late afternoon and watch planes fly and, if lucky, peacocks dance in the jungle that surrounds the rocks. I went there this time as well to spent a couple of hours along with Satish and Ishwari. Beautiful flowers of JNU campus deserve a separate entry- but for now I’ll limit myself to posting photos only.

One year into my stay in Delhi in 2009 I was full of praise for PSR and the “PSR experience”:

Back in Delhi, I am a grown up man with a responsibility to fulfill. It’s a blessing to me that my work not just involves sitting in front of computer with browsers open but also traveling and meeting new people. Listening to disheartening stories of poor, unfortunate and deprived Nepalis in Delhi is one of the darkest experiences.

Exploring the city, having dahi valla in Chandni Chowk and standing at the Parthasarathi Rocks of JNU have been some of the most fulfilling experiences. I would say being at the top of PSR, seeing peacocks singing and dancing and airplanes flying, is the best thing I have experienced in this city this year. That particular moment when I was photographed (by a camera!) at PSR was the best of all. I cherish that moment.

From  A Year in Delhi, India (6 Nov 2009)

Previous articles/entries on JNU:
1. Happy Holi India! (and JNU Chaat Festival)
2. Winter Flagbearers: Delhi Cold and JNU Food Festival
3. India, Universities and World Ambitions

Reasons to Come Home

By Dinesh Wagle
Wagle Street Journal
I came back to Kathmandu last week after completing my two year tenure in Delhi. “Welcome back to darkness,” some of my friends said.

Load shedding is not a new phenomenon in Kathmandu. But the continued and unacceptably long hours of power cuts have fueled further frustration. Not to mention the ‘deadlocked’ politics and lack of developmental activities. I was mildly surprised to learn that some of my friends preferred to see me in Delhi (meaning anywhere out of Nepal) than in Kathmandu.

kathmandu post sunday 13 feb 2011

Kathmandu Post 13.02.11

This familiar love-hate relationship with the homeland—can’t live with it, can’t live without it. You may run away from home to escape problems but you cannot live away from it for long. You may want to earn a degree or work abroad for a few years but you do not want to die there. The desire to return becomes so strong that at one point it overwhelms you. You will start feeling uncomfortable even with the relatively comfortable life there.

People want to share their happiness with their own. In a foreign land, however many good friends they may have, they can’t communicate their excitement with foreigners as easily as they can with their friends, relatives and neighbours back home. Even if they do, foreigners won’t understand them. They also want to show off their progress—not to their newly acquired foreign friends but to their folks back home. “A Nepali won’t feel validated without showing off his colour television set to his neighbour in Nepal despite earning millions of rupees in Japan,” a senior journalist colleague once told me.

That’s true because there are many other millionaires in developed societies where personal achievements aren’t taken as the significant step they would be considered in Nepal. This is true with any other nationality too. For some it could be the other way around. I have come across many Westerners who have decided to spend their life in third world countries like Nepal and India because they get ‘royal treatment’ and ‘attention’ here. They can’t get the same level of importance in their native society because there are so many other people just like them.

Another very important reason for people to return to their homelands is their desire to do something for their society. After gaining knowledge or amassing wealth, they want to come back to serve their motherland.

My case is slightly different. I do have a strong desire to serve my society and uplift the quality of my profession, but I didn’t go out of Nepal to study or seek employment. And I didn’t come back to show off or share my happiness and progress with my family. In fact, my significant other is still in Delhi studying, among others, econometrics. While in Delhi I was working for a Kathmandu-based company, this newspaper and its Nepali-language sister publication, as fulltime staff. Very few Nepalis work for Nepali companies from outside of Nepal because of the nation’s frail economy.

But Delhi is no New York or Tokyo. This is the capital city of a country where tens of thousands of unfortunate Nepalis toil day and night for meagre earnings. During my stay in the city and trips to other parts of India, I didn’t meet a single Nepali who was very happy or proud to be where he was. And Nepalis are everywhere. From Jammu to Kanyakumari, Mumbai to Shillong, Lucknow to Hyderabad. In all these places I saw Nepalis working at dhabas and shops. Not a good sight. I overheard them talking loudly in Nepali about their difficult life. Not a good sound. All of my attempts to track a Nepali who has done a great deal of ‘progress’ (apart from Udit Narayan and Manisha Koirala) resulted in encounters with momo sellers or small-time liquor sellers in Delhi. I have realised that Nepalis do not go to India to seek success. They go there to sustain their lives. India is not a land of opportunity for us, but a temporary escape from our reality.

But India is not to be blamed for our misfortune. The problem lies with us, not with them. If you are poor and divided, others will look down upon you.

Instead, I feel, India is doing us a favour by allowing us to enter its boundaries without asking. Of course, it does so because of its own compulsions and to safeguard its own strategic interests.

Despite all the hype and hoopla about India being a constitutionally secular country, in my understanding, this is not the case. India can’t become a secular country because it is not just a country. It’s a continent in itself and, more than that, it’s a civilisation. This civilisation is different from that of, say, the Chinese or the West or Muslims. It’s the Hindu civilisation. You don’t have to be a Huntington to understand why a nation that has the second largest Muslim population in the world fought twice with Pakistan and is fencing its frontiers with Bangladesh with barbed wires but is so keen on keeping the border with Nepal open. Jawaharlal Nehru once said something about the Himalayas being India’s final frontier and Hindu nationalists in India continue to believe even today that Nepal is part of what they call the Bharat Barsha.

My understanding is that India has no problem with Nepal as long as it remains a predominantly Hindu society. All the rhetoric that comes out of Delhi that Nepal is ‘tilting’ towards China or becoming ‘a hotbed for anti-India activities’ is lame. This happens despite knowing that Nepal can never be as close to China as it is with India because of civilisational differences with its northern neighbour.

This article was first published in today’s Kathmandu Post. Nepali version of the same was published in the Saturday (12 Feb) edition of Kantipur.

Two Years in Delhi, India

SpiceJet at kathmandu airport

A plane belonging to the Indian budget airline Spicejet at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. Landing at the TIA was smooth. The change in temperature (from IGI Delhi

Two years ago today (Nov 6) I left Kathmandu for Delhi. It wasn’t planned but here I am, today, back in Kathmandu from Delhi. I am in a hurry now- have to go to play deusi– so I am not writing a detailed entry like I did last year about my life, time and observations in Delhi and around India. I plan to extend this entry sometime in the middle of this month when I return to Delhi. Happy Tihar to all.

Related posts:

1. A Year in Delhi, India
2. Dinesh Wagle Has Moved to New Delhi, India

An Overnight Bus Journey to Mahendranagar from New Delhi

 

Bus ride- Delhi to Banbasa (India)/Mahendranagar (Nepal)

Seen inside a bus plying between Delhi to Banbasa (Indian town bordering with Nepal's Mahendranagar): "Emergency Exit". Seat for MP, MLA (Member of Legislative Assembly) and Freedom Fighter.

This is clearly one of the most uncomfortable bus journeys that I have undertaken in recent times. I have to spread my legs to form a huge V so as to avoid rubbing my knees on the back of the seat in front of me.

The bus is filled with Nepalis who are returning to their homes to celebrate Dashain festival. Some of them told me that they work as security guards in Delhi. That was what I had expected when I asked them about their jobs in the Indian capital.

Uncomfortable it is but I am happy that I am finally making this trip to Mahendranagar (or is it Bhim Datt Nagar?) from Delhi a reality. I always wanted to travel with these migrant workers, my fellow citizens. This overnight journey that began from Anand Vihar bus terminal in Delhi will end at Banbasa tomorrow morning.

I am sharing this seat with two young guys from Mahendranagar. One of them says he spent three months in Delhi working at an office. He said he didn’t intend to return without completing his college education.

Many of my co-passengers were engaged in animated conversations until a while ago. “Ashtami ko din ghar pugine vaiyo” said the boy seated next to me.

Meanwhile a Nepali folk song is blaring somewhere at the back of the bus.

Unfriendly Monkeys of Delhi

monkeys of delhi

“We are at their mercy,’’ lamented Rajesh Sehgal, a resident of Mayur Vihar Phase II neighbourhood in east Delhi. “The number of monkeys in the locality has increased beyond control in the past couple of years.” Pic by AFP in 2006, Rajpath, New Delhi.

Humans and monkeys struggle for space in the Indian capital

Going ape in delhi. Kathmandu Post 15.08.10

TKP. Click to enlarge

By Dinesh Wagle

It took me a week and three incidents to identify the culprit. I had kept a bucket of household waste just outside the main entrance of my third-floor apartment so that the collector could take it away. One recent afternoon, the collector knocked on my door to show me something. I was horrified. The waste materials were scattered all over the stairs as if it had been done by a monkey. Or could it be the work of the dog that always sleeps at the main entrance three stories below? I wasn’t sure. But last week, I saw him live in action, playing with my kitchen waste, scattering it all over—like a monkey. The culprit was indeed a monkey.

For the first time in 20 months, I got the taste of living in Delhi. A bad taste it was, but perhaps not so bad compared to what residents of many other neighborhoods in Delhi are experiencing. Monkeys are creating havoc in their daily lives. “We are at their mercy,’’ lamented Rajesh Sehgal, a resident of Mayur Vihar Phase II neighbourhood in east Delhi. Sehgal is also vice president of the area’s Residents Welfare Association. “The number of monkeys in the locality has increased beyond control in the past couple of years,” he told The Times of India last week.

In June, a monkey entered a high security Metro train in Northwest Delhi and delayed the service by 15 minutes. No one was harmed, but members of the Central Industrial Security Force had to intervene to get the monkey out of the train. A cell phone captured the simian’s antics that were fun to watch later on TV, but Metro officials were not amused. “The animal caused a flutter among passengers with everybody running helter-skelter,” NDTV quoted an anonymous Metro official as saying. Continue reading

Cuppa

a cup of tea

A cup of tea. Hot, sweet and satisfying.

The day before yesterday I went to Khanna Market (which is not very far from Khan Market that, unlike Khanna, targets rich customers) to eat at a south Indian restaurant. I had been hearing about this restaurant for long. Several people had sworn that the eatery serves excellent south Indian food at reasonable prices. (“AC and cheap menu.”) It took Satish and me no time to find Chidambaram’s New Madras restaurant.

We went upstairs- in a windowless hall with plain and clean tables. There were four tables on one side, two on the other (our side). Three of those four tables were occupied by three couples. Three men- perhaps in their mid-40s- were furiously eating on the fourth. There was another couple just behind me. Initially I felt little bit odd as I was with a man. That oddness disappeared as we ordered food. I decided to eat Masala Dosa while Satish wanted to taste Onion Idly. Food was not the only reason for me to visit there. I wanted to see the restaurant and the market- Khanna Market. You don’t get out of a restaurant without eating something unless you are deeply dissatisfied with the menu, no? Moreover, I was hungry. Continue reading

Khan Market Magazine Stall

I am posting a photo that I tweeted a few days back. A man walks past a magazine store in Delhi’s Khan Market. khan market magazine stall

This post is a part of my continued effort to give the site a Twitteresque feel. Recently I reactivated the P2 theme that its creators- Automatic- think will be useful for short updates like this one.

Whenever I go to Khan Market I make it a point to visit this and other magazine stalls. You can spend awhile browsing magazines of all kinds at these stalls. A few months ago I was surprised to see a magazine called Blogger’s Park (third issue, I think), collection of blog posts from a certain blogsite- printed in the magazine format. I always wanted to do that- once upon a time- when I used to blog almost full-time. No Nepali magazines is available at these stalls though. Nepali newspapers also don’t come to Delhi and other Indian cities where as Indian newspapers are circulated everywhere in Nepal. But a south Asian magazine that is published from Kathmandu is available here. I had bought the July issue of Himal Southasian from this stall last month. The magazine had carried an article that I wrote.

Related posts:
1. Oh Jangpura!
2. Hustle and Bustle of Chawri Bazaar, Old Delhi